I have to admit, I was a little nervous. This was my first trip across the infamous Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel. Situated at the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, the enginneering marvel links Southeastern Virginia to the Delmarva Peninsula – my ultimate destination. Stretching some 17.6 miles from shore to shore, the span includes two 1-mile tunnels, two bridges, almost 2 miles of causeway and four man made islands! Impressive, yes. Scary, for sure! Worth the trip, definitely!

Once safely across the tunnel, I started a 2-day trip that would include visits to four designated Chesapeake Bay Gateways – Eastern Shore National Wildlife Refuge, Kiptopeke State Park, Cape Charles Historic District and Onancock Historic District and Town Wharf.

First stop was the Refuge visitor center, which features lovely panoramic views of a freshwater pond often frequented by waterfowl, wading birds, and shorebirds. Free binoculars and spotting scopes are available to see everything upclose and personal!  The visitor center is also full of exhibits on local heritage and environmental conservation, definite must-sees. 

Next I strolled the grounds and got to see the remains of huge World War II era concrete bunkers! You would not believe these things. Very eerie, yet interesting as well. Many thanks to refuge staff Alan Stanz and Jennifer Lewis for taking me on a great tour.

From the Refuge, next stop was Kiptopeke State Park, just about 5 minutes away. Kiptopeke means “big water” in the Accomac language and definitely lives up to the name.  Wonderful views!  The park provided me a bed for the night, in very neat lodges.  The accomodations were fabulous – large airy rooms, a fireplace, big kitchen and room for more than 10 people. Definitely worth considering if you are planning a trip with a big group of friends.  

The park offers visitors a host of fun things to do. Boating, fishing, swimming and bird watching (esp. hawks)  to name a few. There is an active birding community in the region and you can even watch folks banding migratory birds if you are lucky!

Cape Charles Historic District was the next on the agenda. What a wonderful downtown! A huge number of Sears Kit houses painted lovely colors and many shops and places to get a cup of coffee. Plus, great views of the water. I stopped at the local artists co-op and browsed through pottery, fine woodworking, jewelry and paintings.

Onancock Historic District and Town Wharf, further north along the peninsula was my final stop. Chartered as a town in the 1600’s, this charming village has a lot to offer in a space that is totally walkable (or paddle-able! Definitely bring a kayak or go out with an outfitter).  What a great reason to get out of your car! I enjoyed doughnuts at the wonderful Corner Bakery (TRULY HEAVEN!), a visit to historic Cokesbury United Methodist Church, a stop at Tangier Island Native Willie Crocketts’ studio and a quick tour of Ker Place,  a c. 1800 federal style house museum and headquarters of the Eastern Shore of Virginia Historical Society. I also got in a little shopping at Garden Art and Gallery Onancock, only a couple of the wonderful local shops and galleries in town. 

Check out this quick video of Ker Place Executive Director Peter Holland to learn more.

Thanks to Richard Pearsall for his hospitality in showing me around Onancock - “foggy place” in Algonquin. 

Gateway Glances is an occasional travelogue series written by Eleanor Mahoney